Guatemala Part 4: Missed Volcanos and World Heritage Sites

The village of San Juan.

My fiancé Cheryl and I returned from our hike up the Mayan’s Face to our room at the estate / restaurant Tul Y Sol in San Marcos La Laguna to find our host Travis Stinson having breakfast on the deck overlooking Lake Atitlán with his father Al and Al’s wife Lisa. I ordered a made-from-scratch Michelada then joined Cheryl in sharing about our sunrise hike. I admitted to my feeling like a wimp at having to stop and gasp for breath and Travis took this as an invitation for concern. He stated that if I had trouble on a hike that saw a 2,500-foot increase in elevation I'd for sure have trouble hiking Guatemala’s most famous volcano Acatenango, which Cheryl and I planned to hike the day after next. That hike, Travis explain, would have an over 7,500-foot increase in elevation. I took the warning to heart, killed my drink, and steered the conversation elsewhere.

That afternoon, Cheryl, Al, Lisa, and I took a short but wave-slamming water taxi ride across the nine-mile-wide lake to the village of San Juan for an afternoon of sightseeing. The town was open and friendly and its main thoroughfare a living art project consisting of multicolored open umbrellas shading the cobblestone street below. The four of us shopped, visited art galleries, and took in the town. I met a street vendor from Austin, Texas of all places who came to Guatemala to craft and sell hot sauces. When I asked to sample his hottest, he proudly presented his Diablo sauce made with Guatemalan ghost peppers. Trying this abomination against food resulted in my slamming three cold beers in succession to get the feeling back on my tongue.

Afterward I bought a jar. It was hot as sin but just as tasty.

The four of us wrapped up our visit and took a water taxi back across the lake to Tul Y Sol. That night Travis prepared a special going away surf and turf dinner for Cheryl and me. As usual, the food, drink, and service were top-notch and served as another reminder of why people travel from the world over to eat at the French-inspired restaurant.

The next day Cheryl and I were picked up by our hired guide Carlos from Heart of Travel. He assured us that the drive to Antigua would be far straighter than was the serpentine roller coaster that brought us from Guatemala City to San Marcus and left Cheryl and I cursing the country’s road design. During the drive Cheryl and I told Carlos of our hike up the Mayan’s Face and of my trouble in doing such. Carlos agreed with Cheryl and Travis and their belief that I should forego trying to hike Acatenango. I reluctantly agreed and Carlos began telling us of all to see and do in Antigua.

Established in 1524 and populated at just over 30,000 people, Antigua is a cosmopolitan city and UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its historic churches, jewelry production, and fine dining. It is a popular tourist destination and considered to be perhaps the safest city in Guatemala.

Hotel Cacique Real

Carlos dropped us off at the Hotel Cacique Real, helped us check in, then bid us farewell until he would return to take us to the airport in a few days. Cheryl and I settled in to our more than posh accommodations then ventured out to see what the city offered. We first visited a pharmacy where I loaded up on sinus medications then made our way to an artisan’s market that specialized in hand-crafted jewelry and luxury items. Cheryl and I purchased a few items then found a bar where we could drink a few Gallo beers and plan what our next three days would look like without a hike to an active volcano.

Spoiler: Antigua is a fantastic consolation prize to missing out on a two-day hike.

Read Part one of my trip to Guatemala HERE

Read Part two of my trip to Guatemala HERE

Read Part three of my trip to Guatemala HERE

This piece first appeared in the Fredericksburg Standard.

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Gayne C. Young

If you mixed Ernest Hemingway, Robert Ruark, Hunter S. Thompson, and four shots of tequila in a blender, a "Gayne Young" is what you'd call the drink!

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Guatemala Part 5: Going with the Flow

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Guatemala Part 3: The Mayan’s Face